Archives: Travels - Syria
Staring
DO you know what it is like to be stared at by 10 guys.
I didn't either, till today. Oh my god. I searched refugee in an internetcaffee this evening.
If this is the feeling alle these blue eyed blond hair well formed barbies like, well I pass for it. Horrible.
While I am sitting in this resaturant -read cafetaria- writing this, 2 men are watchig me through the window. Help.
-who could ever imagine it could be worse than Tel Aviv->
But friendly they are! And cheap -just got a complete meal for less than 3 euro...-
Walked town today and while sitting in the parc a young archeolog came to me. We ended up passing the day together, he guiding me through town. -f.e a shoefactory making shoes for 6 euro.- We talked about everything and nothing.
When I came on the subject staring, he said I had to forgive his brothers. And that it's because I am blue eyed, blond haired and well formed -I guess beatynorms are different here-
AND that a girl walking alone in the streets, without a scarf, might be compared t the russian prostitutes. Right!!! From now on I will show my camera and guidebok even more than before. I'd like to look as a tourist here.
Since he has been walking the streets with me, the staring has been less. So I kind of appreciate his being with me. That and the fact he's a perfect guide. He shows me the city like even a guide couldn't do it and doesn't charge a penny. With his archeological background and the fact that hios family lives the old town for ages, he knows everything. I visit underground tunnels, see churches and get all the information I want.
I guess that after this trip I'll have to recover from an overdosis culture. But after the Roman and Greek empires, this Ottoman and Byzantium is a kind of different and therefore new.
Especially all these underground cities. It's more fun.
We also talk on the subject Syria-America. He's very short on it.
F* them.
If he's not afraid I ask him.
'You've got to know in a region where war is usual people are less worried. And what might happen will happen. We can't control it. So why worry? One thing is sure.
They will pay in the end. Inshallah.'
And then the archeolog in him talks 'Look at all those ancient powers. Romans and Greeks? Gone. Ottomans? Gone. Russians? Gone. In the end, the Amercians, where will they stand if they go on like this? All alone. In the end they'll dissapear.'
It's remarkable but everywhere America is mentioned these days, it's rather in negative ways. You mention Bush in Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Europe,... Not so many fans, I would say. But still man got to be in charge of an nation. Makes one wonder...
Just read in Newsweek that, instead of putting his politics on economy in the States, he decided to go on with his war against terrorism. A big bet, Newsweek tells, because the voters want jobs, not war.
I hop ehe looses. I truly do.
He's making the big monsterthat could become our monster too.
Remarkabe was that after the looting in the Bagdadmuseum, the world was shocked. Not only becausde of the looting, but because the fact it wasn't stopped by the Allied forces.
Europe agrees on it: it could been avoided, even England, and especially the British Museum, say it.
But here, opinions are even more black-white on it: ' We saw how the Americans not only protect the oilfields and secure them, no they did not protect any government but the one of Energy. Because they wanted all those papers to be safed. Meanwhile the Bagdadmuseum was an easy target for looters.
THis tells us what this war is about. I don't have to tell you, it is clear enough...'
I can't tell different, I am afraid. There are too many facts too deal with. Museums but also hospitals were robbed. It is only after some Iraqis asked the Americans to protect the hospitals, they did -said in Time magazine-
But hey, the oil was protected....
Numbers tell us what Iraq has to pay to other countires.
Unpaid bills 57 billion $ Foreign debt 127 billion$ Gulf War 91 199 billion $ - makes 383 billion $ -sources CSIS-
Even Argentina is rich compared to these numbers...
The Iraqi oil (belonging to the Iraqi people according to USA) will be the solution to pay a part of the approximately debt of about 100 million $
Economics say that if Bagdad is doing like Buenos Aires in some 10 years, they will be doing miraculouly well.
So this war was about to free the people?
I guess they will say, yeah we will put a democratic system.
But oh, we forgot about Afghanistan... The system of local wardlords is NOT working. The landlords do get the money, but seem to forget to give it to the government. Who cares? Those pipelines are secured...
Will the same thing happen in Iraq? Once the money is secured, people will forget about the Iraqi's?
Americans seem to forget one thing. Europeans and Americans don't know it, but Arabs do: they never forget.
If one man can't have the bill paid, his son or grandson will. America will pay, they say. -and I am afraid they mean it...-
Inshallah, moslims add....
Posted on April 29, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | 
Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | 
Comments (0)
I've made it!!!
In the bus to Antakya, my back got broken.
My god, what a horrible nightride... Every 1.5 hour the bus stopped and waked us all, by leaving the door open and the cold air in. Aaargh. On top of it, I get the message the two 'friendly' guys in Goreme hassled me. I bought a ticket to Aleppo which in the end they seem to have changed to Antakya. -first ticket did say Aleppo-
I start to argue in the busstation that I don't pay the extra 8000000 TL and they have to call their boss. In the end one guys comes and pays for me the extra money that suddenly is only 4000000 TL. They're bastards, I tell you.
And then they put me on this bus to Aleppo, not even from their own company without a ticket.
I decided not to think, but I fear I'll have a problem at the Syrian border -remembering what happened to Bart and I in Roumania...-
A Turkish guy and I are the only passengers in this bus. We do have 4 drivers! I wonder what buscompany keeps having this line if you know that they have to pay at the Turkish border and the Syrian border some black money to pass through. -And this money is more than the 8000000TL busticket...-
I'm sure they are smuggling or something like that. Otherwise I don't have an explanation for it...
Anyway. I starty to erase all traces of Tel Aviv in my little notebook, wondering and fearing the control at the Syrian border.
Tension heightens while approaching the border.
But thanks to my chauffeurs/smugglers everything passes very smoothly. I get in Syria incredibly fast -compared to the 5 hour experience of last year..-
And suddenly I have to take my bags and change busses. Don't ask me why -they don't tell, and if they do, it's in Arabic...-
The second bus already passed the control, we trow our stuff on this bus and leave our drivers at the border.
Probably they have to wait an hour or 2.
'Welcome to Syria!' a message pops up on my mobile.
Yes! I made it! I am in Syria.
It takes me 2 minutes to fall in love with this country. -Sigal you may envy me! It is indeed lovely-
My 4 new drivers don't understand how a woman alone wants to come to Syria, but they spoil me with tea and cookies.
This friwendliness goes on at arrival in Aleppo. A guy helps me to find a cheap hostel -only 6 euro, private room- another one shows me the way to the souk and tells me I should haggle.
In a way it's a little bit annoying to be alone, because all man keep on staring. - because I don't wair a scarf I presume and those blond hairs and blue eyes don't help either...-
Aleppo resembles Bagdad in a way. Except for the taxis, here they are yellow and a lot of them brand new Matisses. In Bagdad they were white and orange and oldoldold.
I decided to stay at least 3 days -man, this place is cheap...- and take pictures.
-Sigal as you can envy me, I can envy you... A little bit of Arabic knowledge would suit me now...
Get that Maroccian passport and let's put the motorbikes here... One day...-
Posted on April 29, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | Comments (0)
Tourist in town
Completely disguised as an American tourist, with a hat on my head, I walk through town -everything better than being taken as a russian natasha...-
It works. With my camera and little backpack, and not least of all: golden hair covered, the attention still exists, but it's different.
Let me tell you about Americans in this region: they don't have to fear anything. People talk to you as a tourist, not as a criminal. -If Bush on the other hand would walk these streets. Well I don't know about that...-
Another thing here is to find breakfast. Or something similar. No problem finding kebab at 9 in the morning, but that's somehow too early for me.
First of all, you never see women alone, second of all in most of the places there are only men sitting. -Where are all these women?- No real places to sit -like bistro or coffeehouses- so I head for the only touristplace in town, near the citadel.
'If I want breakfast?'
'Yes, pleeeease.' 'A cheese sandwich?'
-well I'd prefer a cheesesandwich, but he, who's complaining?'
Promptly I get hot toast with FRENCH FRIES -at 10 in the morning-. So far breakfast... I decide to eat it as lunch.
Suddenly I have to hurry up, I am meeting the archeolog again, he will show me town and well go shopping.
-whenever you go to Syria, mail me, I'll give his adress and I am sure he will help you whenever whatever-
At the end of the day I think I have seen everything I could see. Not according to my guide, who says it would take me atleast 3 days.
And offcourse that is true, you could walk this town for ages... Only the souk with his main street of 1 km contains 3000! shops.
My impression of town? It exists out of shops, taxis and salesmen.
As far of tourism, this city has a lot to offer -although everything is in a very poor state, but just because of that I liked it so much, people still use the same shops as 1000 years ago.-
But there are no tourists. No where, exept for some exceptions.
Thanks to Bush and his terrific war.
This is the part people don't see, what influence this war has to other countries and people. The economical losses are bigger than one could expect.
The most interesting of this day was the visit to the parents of my guide. His modern looked modern in a kaki trousers, with nice T-shirt and red-dyed hair. But when she puts a coat and scarf to go out, I don't recognize her at all.
We start to talk about daily life, and the struggle of young people. How to deal with what they want -western life- and what they have-stict rules-.
It's difficult, he tells me 'I am from a strict family. Marriages are arranged, and we only talk to the girl, when parents are sitting next to us. We have to decide by seeing their hands and face if we like her. And later talking, but never reallyreally alone.
I am in university and there things are more free. Girls without scarfs, sexy clothes. They act as western girls, but when we try to talk to them they act as arabic girls. Which is very humiliating for us men. I am stuck between two cultures and I don't know what to do.
I love the freedom of the western world, but in that freedom I break all the rules of traditional life.
This conversation we are now having, I only can have with western people. Imagine this with an Arab girl. It would never happen...'
I tell him probably things will change, and everywhere somebody has to be the first to change habits.
'I just don't want to be that first one.' he answers me.
-later in Libanon, I will see that the mix of western life and eastern is possible, although the staring will stay.-
Posted on April 30, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | Comments (0)
Smelling a far past away
My mind wanders to views of today.
Relaxing in the hamam now.
This would be soemthing I would bring into our culture if possible: the hamam...
Later when I am big I want a minihamam in my house. -read bathroom where one should not be afraid of making everything a mess.-
I think of the amazing things of today, so amazing they made me smile all day, and made me forget to take pictures of it.
But then again, all those japanese people who have their trip home because they forget to look while filming...
I wouldn't like to become like that.
I can't help thinking about what that belgian journalist said about the middle-east: I saw no one who was really happy.
I don't agree.
I guess I wonder if they exist really happy people. I don't know any body who is really happy in Europe.
Today I saw this man who makes perfumes. An wonderful shop, full of bottles smelling like far away places and bodies of women. You could close your eyes and remember a childhood in one bottle, or smell your mother in an other one. Or that beautiful girl you met in highschool.
I took a picture of the shop.
'It smells nice' I said. He smiled at me, 'You nice!'
and took my hand to put it full of candies.
'You sweet.'
-he was not trying to do anything, just a nice man-
His eyes were smiling.
I answerd with my sweetest smile.
And kept it all day.
If only the world could be this simple...
Posted on May 1, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | Comments (0)
Sky falling on my head
I stare at the ceiling of my hotel room and wonder if it will fall on my head tonight...
It's soo hot in Damascus, too hot in this room, no airco -but hey what do you exspect for 4 $->
Been busy with those elections in Belgium. How to solve the fact that I should go voting...
I am in Damascus, while my domilily (home adress) is in Ghent, but in fact I have been living in Tel Aviv the latest 6 months. Complicated...
I hope a copy of my passport and some flying tickets will be enough to convince the Belgian Government to let go those fines...
-Thank you mum, for helping me on this one...-
To the Belgian Government I would say, do something usefull instead of making laws for people abroad going to vote. They don't have a clue about politics, and before, if they wanted to vote, they could.
Now we have to find an excuse why we won't vote.
Heck, because your parties are all saying the same bullnuts...
C'mon, close those weaponfactory, create some jobs for the unemployed -I'll send you my plan very soon- instead of quirelling on who should be in charge in Antwerp...
Voting abroad should stay what it was: an opportunity, not an obliogation.
-which in my opinion is totally different when you're living in belgium. Everybody should vote there...-
Oh, on Damascus. maybe because of the heat it is somehow dissapointing... so leaving soon to the desert, to sleep under the stars...
Posted on May 13, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | Comments (1)
National Museum
Sitting in the garden of the National Museum.
It's the place to get lost when the world is spinning too fast. (Temperatures are bearable again)
Damascus didn't get better. (I guess after visiting cities as Aleppo, Beirut, Istanbul, I have seen too many cities for a while)
A desertwind is raging, and the sky is more yellow than blue. Meanwhile I get lost in time.
Not that I like all these historical stuff. It does make me realize the beauty and 'greatness' of the past.
(In the museum there is a shrine where the Torah should have been. I had to smile this thing is here in Syria, and not in Israel. Quite ironic. I don't think they intend to give it to the Israeli...)
Those floating ideas, an d the silence of a museum.
It's like a church, but disconnected of religion. And so I sit in the garden, listening to birds singing songs, waiting til closing time.
Amongst statues that make the past the past.
Posted on May 14, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | Comments (0)
Storm ove Damascus
Storm komt over Damascus. Eindelijk een licht koele bries.
Zwaluwen racen door de lucht en spelen spelletjes waarvan wij het bestaan niet vermoedden.
Wat doe ik hier? De onvermijdelijke vraag doemt in me op.
Angstig omdat er geen antwoorden zijn, verplaats ik mijn blik van dit papier naar elders.
Toeterende auto's maken muziek, al naargelang je definitie van muziek...
Antwoorden blijven uit, zoals ze dat al 25 jaar doen.
Ik kwam voor de kleur van de hemel, zal ik later zeggen. Om de schoonheid van de dingen en de stiltes, eens niet van ongesproken woorden, maar van stiltes, want niemand om tegen te praten.
Waarom het Midden-Oosten zullen ze later vragen.
De antwoorden zijn eenvoudig. Omdat ik het niet link aan buikloop (zoals ik dat wel met India doe), Omdat ik het niet link aan tropische vochtigheid (zoals ik dat wel met Zuid-Amerika doe)
Omdat ik het link aan woestijnen, blauwe hemeles en kamelen. Aan avontuur. Daarom.
En om mijn nieuwsgierigheid dit conflict te bevatten.
Niet eens te begrijpen.
Daarom.
Posted on May 15, 2003
in Travels - Syria
Digg this | Add to Delicious | Technorati reactions | Permalink | Comments (1)
